Penang is a place we visit every year (while we’re based in SG) to see relatives on my hubby’s side — and of course, to eat, eat, and eat! We usually head there in December when the weather’s a little cooler, but this time, we made the trip in June for one reason: durian season!
We were joined by two of my husband’s colleagues from Shanghai, who were eager to try Penang’s famous durians. We managed to arrange a private tour of a durian plantation and got to taste 6 to 7 different varieties — a real treat for durian lovers!
Here’s my 5D4N itinerary of what we did!
5D4N ITINERARY
Day 1 – Arrival
• Arrive in Penang at 10:00 PM
• Transfer to accommodation (check out our airbnb at Gat Lebuh Melayu)
• Supper — street food nearby the airbnb
Day 2
Morning
• Breakfast at Lum Lai Duck Meat Koay Teow Th’ng
• Coffee at Ocra Brew
Afternoon
• Lunch at Shin Boon Kee — remember to buy some char siew home!
• Return to hotel to rest or enjoy a café nearby
Evening
• Explore street art at Armenian Street
• Walk around Chulia Street
• Dinner at Mother & Son Wonton Mee Stall
Day 3
Morning
• Breakfast at Lorong Macalister — Sister Yao’s Char Koay Kak, Penang style Chee Cheong Fun & Char Koay Teow
• Visit Pulau Tikus Market — buy Kwong Heng Loong soy sauce, have coffee at Mundane Coffee Break
• Visit Kean Eng Sdn. Bhd. for local salted fish and dried goods
• Durian tasting at Private Durian Plantation
Evening
• Dinner at Jason Nyonya House
• Return to accom to rest
Day 4
Morning
• Breakfast at Tok Tok Mee
• Visit Chowrasta Market
• Shop at Ghee Hiang – buy their famous sesame oil and tau sar pneah
Afternoon
• Explore Gurney Paragon — shopping!
• Lunch at Gurney Paragon
• Café break
Evening
• Dinner at Padang How Bak Kut Teh
• Return to accom to rest
Day 5 – Departure
Morning
• Brunch at café near airbnb — I went to Le Dux Patisserie!
Afternoon
• Lunch at Tek Sen Restaurant
Evening
• Departure to SG
TO EAT
Lum Lai Duck Meat Koay Teow Th’ng
• A comforting bowl of silky koay teow in clear broth, topped with tender duck meat, fishballs, and crispy garlic. This humble stall in Cecil Street Market is a local favourite—perfect for a light and satisfying breakfast.
• My Comments: My favourite kway teow th’ng used to be the one at Lorong Macalister, but sadly, the original vendor passed away quite suddenly. His daughter took over, but unfortunately, the taste just wasn’t the same — such a pity! We were then introduced to this stall at Cecil Street Market, a bustling traditional market with plenty of food options. But the star here is clearly the kway teow th’ng — just look at the queue! The bowl is quite small (Penang standard size), so if you’re feeling hungry, I’d recommend getting two small bowls rather than one large. The proportion of kway teow, soup, and crispy lard is just better in the smaller bowl.
Sister Yao’s Char Koay Kak
Opens 7am to 12pm; Closes on Wednesdays and Thursdays
• Charred to perfection over a big wok, this stir-fried radish cake is smoky, savoury, and packed with flavour. A Michelin Bib Gourmand stall, Sister Yao is a local legend, and her queue says it all. Go early!
• My Comments: This is hands down my absolute favourite in the whole of Penang. A must-have for breakfast — no questions asked. And here’s my tip to make it even better: add an extra egg and ask for it tok chui chui (smashed into little bits). It’s so ridiculously good, I’d eat it every day if I could!
Chee Cheong Fun
• This humble roadside stall serves up a Penang-style chee cheong fun that’s simple but deeply satisfying. The steamed rice rolls are silky smooth and drenched in a mix of sweet sauce, shrimp paste, and chilli—topped with a sprinkle of sesame seeds. It’s one of those nostalgic eats that locals keep coming back for. Go early before it sells out!
• My Comments: This one’s pretty unique. If you’re used to the Singaporean style of CCF, this will be quite a surprise! It’s sweet, salty, and packed with umami from the prawn paste — definitely not for the faint-hearted. I’m alright with it, but honestly, I wouldn’t go out of my way just for it. Only if I’m already eating at Sister Yao’s Char Koay Kak stall.
Char Koay Teow
• A classic Penang must-try, the Char Koay Teow is wok hei-packed and full of flavour. Stir-fried over high heat with flat rice noodles, prawns, Chinese sausage, egg, cockles and bean sprouts—this stall is a local favourite for good reason. Expect a bit of a wait, especially at night, but it’s worth every bite!
• My Comments: Alex isn’t a fan of char koay kak, so he’s always on the lookout for a good char koay teow. We’ve tried many stalls around Penang — Siam Road, Tiger (with duck egg), just to name a few — but this one was a random find. The owner fries one plate at a time, ensuring good wok hei with every plate. A must-try if you’re in the area!
Kimberley Street Tok Tok Mee
Opens 8am to 12pm
• “Tok tok mee” is Penang’s old-school wantan mee, known for the clacking bamboo stick sound of the street vendors. Springy egg noodles, char siew, and dumplings in a light soy dressing—simple but nostalgic.
• My Comments: This is my favourite Tok Tok Mee stall in Penang! (Though not my husband’s or Annie’s — their favourite is the one below.) The portion is really small, as you can probably tell from the photo, but it works perfectly since we usually eat multiple meals a day in Penang. I love it because the dark sauce blends so well with the noodles, and of course, the pork lard — amazing!
Mother and Son Wonton Mee @ Chulia Street
Opens 4pm to 10pm, or until sold out; Closes on Mondays
• A popular dinner spot at Chulia Street, Mother and Son wanton mee is loved for its springy noodles, deeply flavoured sauce, and handmade dumplings. Open late and always bustling.
• My Comments: This is Annie’s and my husband’s favourite wonton mee stall. The noodles are very springy (q-q!) and the sauce is nicely flavoured. Personally, I feel the morning one at Kimberley has a richer taste, but the texture of the noodles here at Mother and Son is definitely more springy. You should try both and let me know which you prefer! Do note that this stall is located on the street — Chulia Street — where the food vendors start setting up in the evening.
Ah Chui Seafood
Opens 4pm to 10pm
• A hidden gem for locals, Ah Chui Seafood serves up fresh catch of the day, wok-fried to order. It’s a no-frills spot, but the flavours, especially the kam heong lala (clams) — are unforgettable.
• My Comments: We didn’t manage to go to Ah Chui this time round, but this is my hub’s ultimate favourite restaurant in Penang. It’s a bit of a drive — around 30 to 45 minutes from the city centre depending on traffic — but to him, totally worth it. I’m not much of a seafood person (and I don’t like fish!), so it’s not high on my list, but if you love seafood, it’s definitely a must-visit. That said, I do love clams — and their kam heong lala is a MUST order. Oh, and don’t miss out on their QQ noodles too!
Hon Kei Food Corner
Opens 9am to 9pm; Closes on Thursdays
• A versatile kopitiam known for its pork porridge, noodles, and vermicelli. There’s something for everyone here, and the turnover is fast, so you’ll always get fresh, piping-hot food.
• My Comments: This spot is such an underrated gem. They serve pork soup with your choice of porridge, vermicelli, or noodles (thin, thick, or even instant mee). I’m a huge fan of pork, so naturally I love the soup here — rich, flavourful, and slow-boiled with pork bones for hours. It’s like Penang’s version of Korean gukbap! I personally recommend going for the porridge — it’s not the sticky Cantonese-style, but more like soft rice grains topped with piping hot broth. SLURP. Just writing this is making me hungry!
Jason Nyonya House
Opens 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 9pm; Closes on Wednesdays
• Located in the heart of town, Jason’s is a charming eatery that blends traditional Peranakan recipes with home-style cooking.
• My Comments: As a Peranakan, I’m quite particular when it comes to Nyonya food. If you’re not familiar, Peranakan culture is found mainly in Singapore, Malaysia, and Indonesia — but even within these countries, the cuisine can differ quite a bit. For example, Nyonya food in Melaka is not the same as in Penang! Over the years, I’ve tried many Nyonya restaurants across Singapore, Melaka, and Penang. My favourite? Honestly — my own cooking. HAHA! But if I had to pick a restaurant, Jason’s would be it. That said, everyone has different preferences — my husband’s side of the family isn’t a fan of Jason’s, but hubs and I really enjoy the food from Jason’s and will visit even up to twice a trip! Go and try and let me know what you think!
Padang How Bak Kut Teh
Opens 5pm to 11pm; Closes on Wednesdays
• This place does a rich, herbal-style bak kut teh with fall-off-the-bone pork and flavourful broth. Served with you tiao and you’ve got the perfect hearty dinner.
• My Comments: This is a very different kind of bak kut teh — nothing like what we get in Singapore. Malaysian-style bak kut teh is generally more herbal, but this one takes “herbal” to a whole new level. One sip of the soup and you’ll go, WOW! It’s so intensely flavourful that if you drink too much, your tongue might even go a little numb — in a good way! Served with fragrant yam rice and a side of youtiao (dough fritters), it’s the definition of hearty, comforting food.
From feasting on local favourites to indulging in creamy durians straight from the source, this Penang trip was one for the books. Already counting down to the next bite!8
A Singaporean Mum 
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